Published: 2026-06-14
Riichi Mahjong Efficiency: The Basics of "What to Discard"
How to think about nani-kiru (what-to-discard) problems: shanten, tile acceptance (ukeire), and why pure efficiency is the right default for beginners.
"What to discard" (nani-kiru) is the most common puzzle in riichi mahjong: you hold 14 tiles and must choose the one discard that gives your hand the best chance to improve. For beginners, the most valuable habit is to discard for pure efficiency — keeping the tiles that accept the most useful draws.
Shanten: how far from tenpai
Shanten is how many tile swaps you are away from tenpai (a ready hand). A 1-shanten hand needs one good draw to reach tenpai; 2-shanten needs two. The first rule of an efficient discard is never to raise your shanten — keep the hand as close to tenpai as you can unless you have a strong reason not to.
Ukeire: counting your acceptance
Among discards that keep the same shanten, the best one usually accepts the most tiles — this count is called ukeire (tile acceptance). An open two-sided shape such as 4-5 (which accepts both 3 and 6) takes in more than a closed wait like 4-6 (waiting only on 5) or a lone pair. Counting how many tiles each discard accepts, and how many of those are still live, is the heart of efficiency.
- Prefer two-sided (ryanmen) shapes over closed kanchan/penchan waits.
- Keep tiles that connect to more of your hand; drop isolated terminals first.
- Among equal-ukeire choices, weigh tile safety and future hand value.
When to look past pure efficiency
Efficiency is the right default, not the whole game. As you improve you also weigh hand value (yaku and dora), the danger of dealing into an opponent, and how many turns remain. Strong players bend efficiency for value or safety when the situation calls for it — but they always know what the efficient discard was first.
How to practice
Drill many positions and check your answer against the tile acceptance. On TsumeDojo each what-to-discard problem shows the accepted tiles and the count after you answer, so you can see exactly why a discard is best. Solving a lot of these builds the instinct to spot the efficient discard at a glance.
📖 Related reading
- Mahjong Glossary: Tenpai, Shanten, Waits, Tile Efficiency, and MoreA beginner-friendly glossary of the riichi mahjong terms that come up most in "what to discard" problems — tenpai, shanten, ukeire, wait shapes, and more. Knowing what they mean makes problems and commentary far easier to follow.
- When to Call in Riichi Mahjong: Open Melds, Yaku, Speed, and DefenseWhat-to-discard trains the closed hand, but in real games the decision to call (pon/chi) or stay closed also decides games. The big pitfall (you still need a yaku), when to call, when not to, and kuisagari.
- What to Discard: Choosing Your Wait — Good Shapes vs. Bad ShapesEfficiency gets you to tenpai; wait selection decides WHICH tenpai. Good vs bad wait shapes, counting your live tiles, aiming for a good-shape tenpai, tegawari, and why pinfu needs a two-sided wait.
- Riichi Mahjong Defense: Push or Fold, and How to Find Safe TilesEfficiency gets you to tenpai, but you also win by NOT dealing in. A guide to push/fold, full folding (betaori), and finding safe tiles — genbutsu, suji, and the wall (no-chance).
- What to Discard: Five-Block Theory and Spotting Useless TilesBefore you count tile acceptance, decide which blocks to keep — the five-block framework. Block strength order and the discard order for isolated tiles.